MUST: “Textura Wines: dreams rule the vineyard”

Marcelo Araújo and Patrícia Berardi had a dream of producing great wines in the Dão. And they followed the Burgundy model, taking advantage of small differences in terroir to achieve results that are sometimes more structured and intense, sometimes more elegant and fresh. There’s nothing like seeing a dream come true.

Do you remember how the Eugénio de Almeida Foundation presented the latest Pêra Manca in Brazil before even launching it in Portugal? Brazilians are major consumers of Portuguese wine, but they are also, increasingly, respected producers. Names like Lima & Smith (Quinta da Covela), Menin Douro Estates, ManzWine, or Fernanda Zucarro (from Quinta Alta) are some of the examples now joined by Textura Wines, in the Dão. A story that began like so many others: with a dream.

Patrícia Berardi has a background in environmental engineering, specializing in circular economy, and came to Portugal as a visiting professor at the University of Porto — but also with the secret wish to find a vineyard where she and her husband could make wine.

Marcelo Villela de Araújo worked nearly 30 years in investment banks and hedge funds in Brazil, but when he moved to Portugal, he had already made a decision: the financial world would stay on the other side of the Atlantic and the future would be about discovering a vineyard in the Dão, specifically in the Serra da Estrela sub-region, where "many of the fresh, elegant wines we most admired" came from.

"Wine was an old passion," Marcelo continues, "but I had never trained in the field and needed to understand the business seriously before taking the leap." So, while his wife taught the Master's in Environmental Economics and Management at UP, Marcelo enrolled in a postgraduate degree in Oenology at the Catholic University of Porto, followed by a course in Viticultural Management in Spain.

At the same time, they began looking for vineyards, "as close as possible to Serra da Estrela," and while doing so, "we began to notice many abandoned textile factories" left behind by the crises of the 1980s and 1990s, he recalls. That’s when they thought: "what if we transformed one of these factories into our production and wine tourism center?"

Thus, Textura Wines was born in 2018, "in one of those old factories, right next to the Serra da Estrela Natural Park" — and the name is both a tribute to the structure of Dão wines and to the textile industry of the region.

Today, Textura owns around 28 hectares of vineyards (and 40 of land), spread across the areas of Gouveia and Penalva do Castelo. Most are located in the Gouveia municipality, "near Casa da Passarella and MOB," Marcelo explains. In Penalva do Castelo, they have two estates: one at 600 meters altitude and another at 500. Granite and clay soils — "which give the wine a bit more structure," he says.

The terroirs are quite distinct despite their proximity, and that’s where the idea of emulating Burgundy came from. Côte de Nuits and Côte de Beaune, for instance, produce very different wines despite being close to each other. That’s what happens in the Dão — and it should be explored.

One Dão, many terroirs

That’s the idea behind the structure of the Textura Wines portfolio. It begins with the Pretexto range: fresh, elegant wines that serve as an introduction to the Dão and its diversity. These are wines priced around 14 euros, including a white made from Encruzado and Bical with very little oak; a red with very soft tannins; and a rosé made from Jaen, with some color and gastronomic potential. There's also a Palhete that brings the best of both: 70% Jaen and Alfrocheiro, and 30% Encruzado and Bical.

The Textura da Estrela line represents the vineyards of Gouveia — some newer, some quite old (around 60 years). Prices range from 18 euros (for the 100% Tinta Roriz rosé) to 28 euros for the Tinta Pinheira (aka Rufete). The red blend (Jaen, Touriga Nacional, Alfrocheiro) is very balanced and fresh, a result of slow grape maturation and granite soils. An excellent example of the Serra da Estrela terroir Marcelo spoke of.

Encoberta and Constructo are two wines from the Penalva parcels, which still feature granite soils but now with clay as well. These conditions give the wines more structure and complexity, while preserving freshness. Encoberta is more accessible and direct: an elegant red made from 50% Alfrocheiro, 20% Touriga Nacional, 20% Jaen, and 10% Tinta Roriz. Constructo is a step above: a more ambitious wine with extended aging, deep red fruit, more density, and a clearly gastronomic profile. This is also reflected in the prices: 22 and 42 euros, respectively.

The Pura line is dedicated to the old vineyards of Serra da Estrela — with the goal of respecting their legacy. These are authentic wines, with that refined rusticity that only old vines can deliver. Available in white and red, priced at 37 and 39 euros, they are among the highlights of the portfolio.

Then there’s Vinha Negrosa (53 euros) and Dona Áurea (59 euros), the top-tier wines made from the best vineyard parcels. Vinha Negrosa is a powerful red, with dark fruit, balsamic notes, and very well-integrated freshness. Dona Áurea, on the other hand, has a very seductive profile, yet remains serious and sophisticated. These are wines meant for aging and help tell the story of contemporary Dão.

From the world to Portugal

The first bottling from Textura Wines happened in 2020 — right in the middle of the pandemic, which delayed the project by about a year — but recognition came quickly. In 2022, one of their whites made it into Wine Enthusiast’s Top 100, and Vinha Negrosa was named Wine of the Year by Revista de Vinhos. The following year, Dona Áurea placed second.

At first, Textura exported nearly 80% of its production, but these distinctions have helped build its presence in the domestic market, especially through restaurants and wine shops. The U.S. was once their main export market but has been losing ground to the U.K. and Scandinavian countries. Production currently stands at around 90,000 bottles per year, half of which are in the Pretexto range. Dona Áurea is the most exclusive, with a limited production of 700 bottles. Around 2,000 bottles are made of Vinha Negrosa.

Textura Wines also stands out for its sustainability efforts. The vineyards are certified organic, and this year, the wines will be as well. The company practices low-intervention viticulture and is a model of circular economy: treating and reusing water, composting, sorting and repurposing waste, using lightweight bottles and recyclable boxes, avoiding wood in packaging, and generating clean, renewable energy on-site. Patrícia Berardi, with her background, is clearly the key figure in this sustainability commitment.

With the brand now well established, the next step is wine tourism. "The Dão needs it," says Marcelo. "Sometimes people just don’t visit because there’s no offering — and we want to change that. We want people to come here, taste the wines where they’re made, get to know the project, the story…" Who knows — maybe they’ll catch the same dream as this couple?

| Bruno Lobo

https://www.must.jornaldenegocios.pt/prazeres/sabores/amp/textura-wines-o-sonho-comanda-a-vinha